Alone and safe in Sydney

By Sharon Weatherall

Sitting on the docks at Sydney Cove at twilight watching arm-linked people strolling, there is an ambiance and feeling of great appreciation for the beauty our world has to offer.  I am caught up in the excitement of exploring this unique global hotspot, while feeling as safe as I would be in my own home town.

Arriving in ‘Sin City’ after a two week business venture in Melbourne, I’m a Canadian travelling alone and taking a few days to enjoy the sights before leaving the country.  As a freelance writer I am used to exploring on my own and looking forward to checking out what Sydney has to offer by way of tourism, culture and history. By the end of my stay I am not disappointed.

It is Friday evening and capturing an image of Harbour Bridge reflecting on the water is a priority on my agenda. As luck would have it there is an impressive cruise ship in dock - its lights glowing softly like a thousand candles. Across the water the famous Sydney Opera House is cloaked in a luminous aura - quiet before Saturday night’s busy outdoor performance. In the distance the haunting rhythm of a didgeridoo catches the breeze while some skilled indigenous player works magic on the long wooden instrument.    

From a bench I listen to a musician and smile as passer-by’s throw coins into his guitar case. Their gifts are well earned. He is a talented young singer with a voice that lulls people in after enjoying a delicious meal on the waterfront.  ‘The Rocks’ is a treasure chest of fine dining establishments featuring culinary delights from around the world and fresh seafood from local waters – plump prawns, tasty white fish and calamari. On weekends you have to book ahead or arrive early to ensure a seat – if not, you will have to take a chance on waiting.

As darkness descends I lean on the dock rails camera in hand, assessing the view before me and mentally comparing it to pictures I have seen before. I feel like I am standing in a postcard on the picturesque cove that drew me to Sydney. It is home to ‘Circular Quay’ – Ferry Wharves and marina housing transportation for travellers crossing over to Manly on the North Shore or farther out into the blue for whale watching and tours of one of the most magnificent water systems in Australia. I walk past the ferries to the far side of the quay to join others who are photographing the renowned scene reflected on dark waters. To the rest of the world ‘this’ is Sydney at night.

On the bus ride back to Park Street, I reflect on my busy first day including visits to the Australian Museum, St. Mary’s Cathedral and Hyde Park - all a short walk from Regis City Centre where I am staying. Earlier it had taken very little time to get my bearings using the helpful guide ‘This Week in Sydney’, brochures and maps provided by the hotel or just stopping to ask for directions. The city which is built on harbours, coves and bays that each feature unique attractions, scenic highlights and landmarks, is a shutterbug’s dream. There are not many roads that don’t lead to an impressive coastal view.

On day two of my visit I purchase a $35 ticket and board a ‘Hop On-Hop Off’ Citysightseeing bus to head for Bondi Beach – a renowned hotspot drawing surfboarders from all over the world. Its powdery sands and white crested waves are surrounded by cliffs and elevated urban development. Walking tours award spectacular panoramic views for photographers and thousands of others who brave the heat and climb ever higher to see what eye candy is hidden behind the next turn. The walk can be as short or long as you want while still featuring worthwhile rewards for the effort. I choose to climb down the rocks closer to the waves and bobbing bronzed bodies that are waiting for the perfect curl.  Some succeed in taming unpredictable waves while others disappear beneath the churning froth only to resurface and paddle back out again. Back at the beach there are endless shops and restaurants to escape from the sun and enjoy a bite to eat – popular fast foods, or fish and chips and a frosty cold beer.

Hopping back on the Bondi Explorer Bus I climb to the top level and continue basking in sunshine to enjoy the open scenery as we pass through North Bondi, Dover Heights, Rose Bay and Double Bay on our way back into the city.  Later in the evening I am lucky enough to attend Chinese New Year celebrations joining thousands of people gathered along George Street to launch ‘Year of the Dragon’ at a brilliant two hour parade. Before the crowd disperses I steal away to a sports pub where a table of friendly visitors from the US invite me to sit down with them. Neighbouring tables join our conversation and I feel welcome and at home ‘down under’. In Sydney even when you’re by yourself – you are never really alone.

Utilizing my 24 hour bus pass to the max I begin day three with the official CitySightseeing Tour and enjoy another top level view of Sydney and all it has to offer. That’s pretty good value for your money and a great visual scope on places like Kings Cross, Botanical Gardens, St. James Anglican Church, The Sydney Tower, Parliament House, the Sydney Fish Market and Paddington Markets, Campbell’s Cove, Chinatown and Central Station. Seeing these locations first hand really brings your map to life. I end my morning tour at Darling Harbour where there was more than enough to keep me busy for the rest of the day.

Purchasing a value voucher for the Sydney Aquarium/Wild Life Sydney I spend the next few hours studying Australia’s fascinating marine life – the aquarium is an awesome bang for my buck featuring everything from shark, crocodiles and platypus, to penguins, seahorses, glow-in-the-dark jelly fish and many other tropical surprises from the ocean reef and waters surrounding the continent. Next door I join other visitors goggling over kangaroos, sleepy koala bears and wallabies. Some of the most bizarre wildlife in the country is living inside here amongst natural flora and fauna which is unique to Australia. My voucher also includes admission fee to Manly Oceanworld which I plan to visit the next day.

Darling Harbour features a relaxing Chinese Gardens, the Maritime Museum, an IMAX Theatre, a massive Entertainment/Convention Centre and endless shopping, cafés and eateries along the popular Harbourside, King Street and Cockle Bay Wharves. Look for ‘The Star’ a five star hotel/casino/theatre as a break from the tourist routine – it’s a fun way to ‘gamble’ away a few hours. Afterwards dinner at the Hard Rock Café with its great menu is just what I need and chatty servers help me to decide on something tasty from the menu ensuring I won’t be disappointed. 

Darling Harbour after dark makes for an attractive walk along well lit boardwalks and streets. Just ten minutes from the city centre it’s a safe trek back to my hotel, but there are buses running well into the night for those who would rather ride. Either way, you will witness the nocturnal life of the city passing its many clubs, pubs, eateries and cafes. Seeing well-dressed ‘guys and dolls’ flaunt the latest styles, during this time I come to realize that fashion trends greatly lend to Sydney’s sophisticated and pulsing atmosphere. Named Sin City after a past history of the crime and gangsters, the tables turned and it is easy to see why playwright David Williamson coined the name ‘Emerald City’ for this thriving metropolis with its riches, colours and flamboyant demeanour.
Before retiring I stop at a pub and enjoy a quiet nightcap with others who prefer the solitude of wooden benches and quiet music to the flashing lights and dance beats of a happening night club. 

On day four I catch a city bus for Circular Quay then board a ferry for Manly – Sydney’s North Shore and a vibrant community on its own featuring endless shopping and restaurants, scenic walks and sunbathing beaches with surfboarders riding the waves. Manly Market Place is a shopping mecca with some of Australia’s best designers and artisans selling clothes and accessories, jewellery and hand-made crafts. For naturalists this is the place to experience top notch biking, kayaking, parasailing, rock climbing and more. The half hour trip to Manly by ferry is a highlight you will not want to miss.

After a day of bargain hunting in beach shops, a visit to Oceanworld and photographing surfers from the rock ledges, I am saddened to think that I will soon be leaving this bubbling city with still so much to see and do. Oh well, I believe that’s what makes Sydney so intriguing  - it’s a place you could revisit numerous times and still find new attractions and adventures to experience. For those touring or staying in Australia I would highly recommend a stop in this inspiring and very safe city - even if you are travelling alone.